Nintendo Switch NAT Type D — step-by-step fix to improve NAT
Updated: · Answered by Joe B. in 5 mins
Joe B.
Reviewed for technical accuracy
Specialities: Home networking, Wi-Fi routers, game consoles, Nintendo Switch NAT type issues, port forwarding, UPnP, ISP setup
Fix Nintendo Switch NAT Type D — strict NAT, can’t join friends, error 2618-0516
Technician
Hi! We’ll get your Nintendo Switch NAT Type D problem fixed so you can play online again. I just need a quick picture of your setup so we can choose the right NAT fix.
When you run System Settings → Internet → Test Connection on the Switch, what NAT Type does it show — D, C, or even F? Do you see any error codes like 2618-0516 or 2618-0513 when trying to join friends?
Also, are you connecting the Switch over Wi-Fi or with a USB LAN adapter in the dock? And what kind of network do you use — a single router from your ISP, your own gaming router, or maybe a mobile hotspot / double-router setup?
Customer
On the connection test it shows NAT Type D. Sometimes it even flips to NAT Type F and I get error 2618-0516 when trying to join Splatoon and Mario Kart lobbies. All other devices have normal internet. The Switch is on Wi-Fi, connected to our ISP’s combo modem/router in the living room.
Technician
Thanks, that’s perfect info.
On Nintendo’s system, NAT Type A or B is ideal for Nintendo Switch Online, while NAT Type C/D/F is considered strict NAT and often causes match-making errors like 2618-0516 and “Unable to connect to other consoles”. :contentReference[oaicite:0]{index=0}
In plain English, NAT Type D means your router or ISP is blocking the incoming connections the Switch needs for peer-to-peer online play. Common causes:
• UPnP disabled or strict firewall on the router.
• Your ISP uses CGNAT / carrier-grade NAT so your home doesn’t have a fully open public IP.
• A hidden double NAT situation (router behind another router or modem/router).
We’ll try to push your NAT from Type D → Type B (or A) by tweaking router settings for the Switch: making sure it has a stable IP, enabling UPnP or using DMZ / port forwarding, and ruling out double NAT.
Customer
I’m pretty sure it’s just the one combo modem/router from the ISP, no extra router. I saw “UPnP” in its settings once but left it alone. Wi-Fi signal isn’t amazing where the Switch is, but speed tests on my phone look fine. I just can’t reliably join friends or stay in lobbies on the Switch.
Technician
Got it — so we’re dealing with a single gateway (modem/router combo), which is good. Let’s start with quick checks that often move people from NAT Type D to C or B. :contentReference[oaicite:1]{index=1}
Step A — Re-test and power cycle the network
1) On the Switch, go to System Settings → Internet → Test Connection and note: Internet status, NAT Type and download/upload speed.
2) Power the Switch fully off (hold Power, then “Power Options → Turn Off”).
3) Unplug the gateway’s power for 30–60 seconds.
4) Plug the gateway back in, wait until all “online” lights are solid again.
5) Turn the Switch back on and run Test Connection again.
Let me know if NAT Type is still D/F, or if it changed to NAT Type C. If it’s still strict, we’ll go into the router’s settings page and give the Switch a more open path (UPnP or DMZ).
Customer
I did that. After rebooting the modem/router, the test shows Internet: OK, download/upload look fine but NAT Type is still D. Sometimes if I test again it flips to C, but I still can’t host games and I get kicked from lobbies.
Technician
That’s classic strict NAT behaviour — speeds look fine but peer-to-peer sessions fail.
Step B — Give the Switch a stable IP & loosen NAT on the router
1) On the Switch, go to System Settings → Internet → Internet Settings, select your Wi-Fi network, then choose Change Settings.
2) Note the current IP address (for example 192.168.0.45). Change IP Address Settings from “Automatic” to “Manual” and set:
• IP Address: something outside the DHCP pool, e.g. 192.168.0.250 (but same subnet as your router).
• Subnet Mask: usually 255.255.255.0.
• Gateway: your router’s IP (like 192.168.0.1).
• DNS: either the router IP or public DNS like 8.8.8.8 / 8.8.4.4.
3) On a phone/PC, log into the router’s web interface (often 192.168.0.1). In UPnP or Advanced/NAT settings:
• Make sure UPnP is enabled, then save and reboot the router.
• If there’s a simple DMZ option, set the DMZ host to your Switch’s static IP (e.g. 192.168.0.250) and save.
Nintendo suggests either UPnP, DMZ, or wide port forwarding (UDP 1–65535) for the Switch if NAT stays too strict. :contentReference[oaicite:2]{index=2} Run another Test Connection after these changes and tell me what NAT Type shows up.
Customer
I set a manual IP for the Switch and turned UPnP on. My router has a DMZ option so I put that IP there too. After rebooting, the test now shows NAT Type B. That’s good, right? I can join most games now but sometimes Mario Kart still says can’t join friend’s lobby.
Technician
NAT Type B is what we want — that’s considered “good” and should work with most players.
A couple of things to keep in mind:
• Online sessions depend on both players’ NAT types. If your friend is on NAT Type D or F, you can still see “could not connect to the other console” even though you’re Type B. :contentReference[oaicite:3]{index=3}
• Error 2618-0516 can still pop up if the other side has strict NAT, unstable Wi-Fi, or if Nintendo’s servers are busy. :contentReference[oaicite:4]{index=4}
To make your side as solid as possible:
1) Keep your Switch on 5 GHz Wi-Fi if the router supports it — it’s more stable for online gaming than crowded 2.4 GHz.
2) Make sure no VPN or extra parental-control box is sitting between the router and ISP (that can create hidden double NAT).
3) Ask your friend to run a connection test and check their NAT Type too. If they see NAT Type D, they’ll need to do similar router changes on their end.
Customer
I switched the Switch over to the 5 GHz network and that seems to stabilise it. I can get into lobbies more often now. One more thing: sometimes when the kids play handheld in another room, they drop out mid-match. Could that still be Wi-Fi or NAT related?
Technician
Great question — once NAT Type D is fixed, most remaining issues are plain Wi-Fi stability rather than NAT itself.
For handheld play and rooms further from the router:
• Try to keep the Switch within a couple of rooms of the router and avoid thick walls, metal racks, or microwaves between them.
• If your router offers separate names for bands, keep the Switch on the 5 GHz SSID for gaming, and leave smart home gadgets on 2.4 GHz.
• For the most stable connection (especially for ranked matches in Splatoon, Smash, etc.), use a USB LAN adapter in the dock and run the Switch wired — Nintendo specifically recommends wired when possible for online play. :contentReference[oaicite:5]{index=5}
Random drops while Netflix and other devices are fine is usually Wi-Fi interference or the router being overloaded with too many active connections, not the NAT type itself.
Customer
Understood. I’ll grab a LAN adapter for the dock. One last thing: our ISP mentioned that they use something called “CGNAT” on their connections. If we start seeing NAT Type D again, is that going to be the reason?
Technician
Yes — CGNAT can absolutely force some players into NAT Type D/F no matter what they do on their own router.
Step C — Make the NAT Type B fix stick long-term
• Ask your ISP if they can provide a public IPv4 address or “gaming profile” instead of CGNAT — many will do this on request.
• Keep UPnP enabled or DMZ pointed at the Switch’s static IP; if you reset the router, redo those settings so NAT doesn’t fall back to D.
• Update the router’s firmware once in a while; some brands explicitly fix Nintendo Switch NAT issues in firmware notes.
• Avoid putting a second router behind the ISP box unless you know how to run it in bridge mode — that’s how double NAT sneaks in.
If you ever get stuck with NAT Type D again after an ISP change or new router, you can come back here, or just open a chat with an expert and we’ll trace the NAT step-by-step.
Customer
Makes sense. I’ll call the ISP about the CGNAT thing and keep the Switch on that static IP with DMZ. For now, connection tests show NAT Type B consistently and the kids can join matches. Thanks for explaining everything in normal language.
Technician
You’re very welcome — glad we could move your Nintendo Switch from NAT Type D to B and get online play working again.
Summary: To fix Nintendo Switch NAT Type D, run a connection test to confirm the NAT type, reboot your modem/router, give the Switch a stable IP address, then either enable UPnP or place that IP in the router’s DMZ / port forwarding. If CGNAT or double NAT is involved, coordinate with your ISP so the console can reach Nintendo’s servers more directly. If you hit a weird router interface or error code on the way, just open a chat with an expert and we’ll walk through it live.
Customer
Perfect, I feel a lot less lost with this NAT stuff now. Online matches are finally working the way they should. Appreciate the detailed help!
Technician
Any time! If a friend or coworker complains that their Nintendo Switch shows NAT Type D, can’t join friends, or constantly throws error 2618-0516, you can share this checklist — and if you’d like someone to click through the router and Nintendo Switch settings with you in real time, just start a chat with an expert and we’ll take it from there.
Quick answer: the accepted fix
Accepted fix when a Nintendo Switch shows NAT Type D: run Test Connection, give the console a static IP, enable UPnP or put that IP in DMZ / port forwarding, avoid double NAT, and ask your ISP for a public IP if CGNAT keeps you stuck on strict NAT.
Why Nintendo Switch shows NAT Type D (router, NAT, CGNAT, Wi-Fi)
Most Nintendo Switch NAT Type D or NAT Type F problems boil down to how your router and ISP handle NAT and ports, not the console itself. Common causes include strict firewall rules, UPnP turned off, no DMZ or port forwarding for the Switch, hidden double NAT (router behind another router), or an ISP network using carrier-grade NAT (CGNAT) that keeps your home behind another layer of translation. :contentReference[oaicite:6]{index=6}
Nintendo rates NAT types from A to F. Type A/B are ideal for online gaming, while C and D are restrictive and can block peer-to-peer sessions with friends. Type F often means the console can’t reach Nintendo’s services at all. By mapping the path Switch → router → modem → ISP, you can see where “strict NAT” appears and adjust the router (UPnP, DMZ, firmware) or work with your ISP when CGNAT is involved. :contentReference[oaicite:7]{index=7}
How to check whether Nintendo Switch NAT issues are router, ISP, or console
To quickly narrow down a Nintendo Switch NAT Type D issue, start with Nintendo’s own tests. On the console, go to System Settings → Internet → Test Connection and note the NAT Type, download/upload speed, and any error codes. :contentReference[oaicite:8]{index=8}
If other devices stream and browse fine, your basic internet connection is OK — the problem is specifically how NAT is handled for the Switch. Log into the router and check for UPnP, DMZ, and port forwarding options, and confirm there isn’t a second router in the chain. If you’ve opened things up for the Switch but NAT stays strict, ask your ISP whether they can move you off CGNAT or provide a “public IP / gaming profile” so your console can reach more players online.
Nintendo Switch NAT Type D — quick troubleshooting tips
Confirm the NAT type on the Switch, then tune router and ISP settings for better online play.
Fast path: run a Test Connection on your Nintendo Switch → assign the console a static IP address → enable UPnP or place that IP in the router’s DMZ → retest until you see NAT Type B or A. Avoid double NAT, and if your ISP uses CGNAT, ask about a public IP or gaming option. For ranked matches and fewer disconnects, a USB LAN adapter is the most stable way to connect.
Disclaimer: This information is AI-generated and intended for general guidance only. For advice specific to your Nintendo Switch, router model, and ISP, please consult a verified expert on Whizz-Tech before making decisions.
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FAQ
What does NAT Type D mean on Nintendo Switch?
NAT Type D means your network is very restrictive for Nintendo Switch Online. You might be able to connect to Nintendo’s servers but struggle to join or host peer-to-peer games with other players. Switching to NAT Type B or A by adjusting router NAT settings (UPnP, DMZ, port forwarding) usually solves lobby and matchmaking errors. :contentReference[oaicite:9]{index=9}
How do I change Nintendo Switch NAT Type D to B or A?
First run System Settings → Internet → Test Connection to confirm the NAT type. Then give the Switch a static IP, enable UPnP or put that IP in the router’s DMZ / port forwarding, and avoid double NAT. If your ISP uses CGNAT, ask them for a public IP or gaming profile so your console can get a more open NAT. :contentReference[oaicite:10]{index=10}
Why can I join some friends but not others with NAT Type D?
Online sessions depend on both players’ NAT types. Networks with a more strict NAT type can prevent you from connecting with specific players. If you are on NAT Type D and your friend is also strict, Nintendo’s servers may not be able to link your consoles. Improving your NAT to Type B or A makes it easier to connect to players with different NAT types. :contentReference[oaicite:11]{index=11}
When should I contact my ISP about Nintendo Switch NAT problems?
If you have enabled UPnP or DMZ, confirmed there is no double router, and still stay stuck on NAT Type D/F, your ISP may be using CGNAT or blocking ports. At that point, contact them and ask whether they can provide a public IPv4 address or gaming option that allows more open NAT for the Nintendo Switch.